Vincent Couche is part of the upwelling of talent (and awakening to terroir) taking place in the extreme South of Champagne (a la Roses de Jeanne – Ed.), and like a number of responsible growers, he farms biodynamically. Moreover, he has vineyards both in his base village of Buxeuil, and in distant Montgueux, a remote southern Champagne outpost with remarkable Chardonnay. Primary vinification is in a combination of tank and barrel, and Couche is one of increasingly many Champenoise (especially among the young), to believe that one should render a complete as well as complex still wine before bothering to ‘Champagnise’ it. I got my first, if incomplete, glimpse of his portfolio this year, and while one bottling was just a bit too tart and austere to more than mildly recommend, the other three wines I tasted demonstrate impressive talent.